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Wine should be where the food is New York: Our grocery stores | Opinion

Opponents of wine in grocery stores claim it will hurt small businesses. As the owner of a small winery in upstate New York, I’m here to tell you: it’s not a valid argument.

Before I moved back to New York and founded Colloca Estate Winery, I lived in Arizona — one of 40 states where picking up a bottle of wine along with your groceries is part of everyday life. Arizona wineries still flourish, small businesses still thrive, and consumers enjoy the convenience of buying wine the way they shop for everything else. It works, and it could work in New York too.

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Some from the industry ask, “If it ain’t broke, why fix it?” But for many of us, the current system is broken. When wine and food are natural companions in people’s lives, why force them to shop separately for each? This isn’t just about convenience. It’s about fairness and access for both consumers and producers.

At Colloca Estate Winery, we work year-round to craft wines that reflect the unique character of our region. Like hundreds of other small and mid-sized wineries across the state, we’re proud of what we make. But getting our wines into customers’ hands is harder than it should be. Right now, liquor stores account for only 13% of all sales of New York-made wines. And many of those stores prioritize national brands with big marketing budgets and vast distribution networks. That makes it tough for local producers like us to earn shelf space, let alone thrive. 

Many of my fellow winery owners who have spoken out in favor of wine in grocery stores, or in other words, expanding retail access for the New York wine industry, have faced retaliation from liquor stores, resulting in threats of losing what little shelf space they do have. That kind of pressure is telling.

Meanwhile, consistent pressures of rising costs, supply chain disruptions and climate challenges continue to grow and impact the industry. Between 2019 and 2023, wine sales in New York dropped by $10 million. Small producers are feeling the squeeze and the current retail setup and the lack of opportunities it offers is only adding to the burden.

We’re grateful to the independent liquor stores that support local producers, and we want them to succeed. But expanding access to grocery store shelves doesn’t mean shutting those stores down. In fact, liquor stores would remain the exclusive retailers for spirits, and would still offer personalized service and specialty selections that grocery stores can’t match. There’s room for both models to coexist, just as they do in most other states.

Allowing grocery stores to sell wine wouldn’t just make life easier for consumers in our great state. It would create a more level playing field for local wineries from Rochester to the Finger Lakes to Hudson Valley. It would mean more access, greater visibility, and more opportunities to grow. And it’s what New Yorkers want: nearly 80% say they support being able to buy wine in grocery stores. What we’re missing is a major opportunity to help them discover and support wines made right here in New York.

This isn’t just about convenience. It’s about sustainability. When wineries struggle, the ripple effects extend far beyond the tasting room. The entire local economy that supports and is supported by New York wine faces the ripple effects of the challenges the industry faces. These are real jobs and real livelihoods that are being impacted by an outdated system.

Let’s be clear: this is about expanding opportunity for small businesses, not taking it away. Wine is a part of our food culture. It belongs next to the foods it complements. Other states have modernized their laws and seen the benefits: stronger local industries, more consumer choice, and vibrant communities. New York has the chance to do the same. Can you even imagine not being able to buy beer in a grocery store?

New York wineries need access. We need more shelves. More visibility. More opportunities to reach the customers who already want to support us.

Let’s stand with the growers, winemakers and small businesses that bring New York wine to life. It’s time to make space in our grocery stores and give New Yorkers the choice they’ve been asking for all along.

Dr. Chris Colloca is the founder of Colloca Estate Winery in Fair Haven, New York.

This article originally appeared on Rochester Democrat and Chronicle: Wine should be where the food is New York: Our grocery stores | Opinion

Reporting by Chris Colloca / Rochester Democrat and Chronicle

USA TODAY Network via Reuters Connect

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