After 30 years in the kitchen, many at top NYC restaurants, Giuseppe Fanelli isn’t interested in playing it safe. The longtime executive chef — most recently at Tredici Social in Bronxville and the since-closed Tredici North in Purchase — has built his career on thoughtful, flavor-driven cooking.
Now, however, he’s reworking the familiar into something unexpected at Cafe Nelo, which opens Feb. 10 in Bronxville. And he couldn’t be more energized.
He’s done trials with fish from Nantucket, studied (and discussed) cuts of meat with celebrated butcher Pat LaFrieda Jr. (the two go so far back they were both at each other’s weddings), analyzed (and discussed) past recipes, and taste tested his way through different menu options.
For Fanelli, a “Chopped” and “Kitchen Casino” winner, inspiration also came from the restaurant’s modern décor, which incorporates bursts of orange, gold, tan, and green. The 30-seat space — formerly Beer Noggin — has been completely reimagined as something simple yet lively, with ambient lighting, a five-seat bar, two counter seats, a window seat piled with comfy pillows, and glowing orange lamps that give the room a warm playfulness.
There’s a certain cheekiness inherent in the design along with a whimsical yet serious attention to detail that’s evident in everything from the gold martini glasses behind the bar (designed to match the inventive cocktails), to the bright Ferrari yellow custom tower dispensing ice-cold Moretti beer, to the gold toilet in the bathroom.
And, of course, to Fanelli’s exacting approach to the food.
Making the unfamiliar familiar at Cafe Nelo
The goal, he said, is to make the restaurant — by the same owner of Tredici Social — one that surprises with a menu that includes twists on favorites. His version of Swedish meatballs, for example, includes aged steak and cave aged pecorino cheese. And his arancini comes with carnoli rice, saffron, nduga, English peas and sharp provolone.
Other items include Wedding Soup (with veal meatballs, an eight-minute egg, escarole, pork belly and ramen); Velluto Blanco (mafalda pasta with braised veal, Maine lobster, tarragon, aged sherry, blistered tomatoes and charred scallions in a velvety cream); salmon tartar (with cucumber, capers, red onions dill and creme fraiche over a potato cake); Deconstructed Wellington (seared prime rib cap with mushroom duxelle, prosciutto, topped with a puffed pastry) and chicken parm (with spicy vodka sauce, pepperoni cups and Calabrian honey).
Even his Bang Bang Shrimp, which he offered at Tredici North, has been altered to include gochujang and a Moretti beer batter.
There’s also pizza — but with kimchi and pork belly, among other out-of-the-box combinations.
Diners can also expect an extensive roster of specials, long a Fanelli hallmark. His list of ever-changing entrées often rival the regular menu in size, a tradition that will continue at Cafe Nelo, where he’s a partner.
“We’re taking what we’ve done in the past and shaking it up so while a few things please one diner, a few other things please someone else,” he said.
“It’s going to be a lot of fun.”
If you go
Address: 102 Kraft Ave., Bronxville, 914-779-7777
Hours: 5 p.m. to close Tuesday to Sunday
Good to know: This is a small space with five seats at the bar so reservations are highly suggested. There’s also counter seating for two along with one TV to the right of the bar. Pizza lovers will also have to wait: it’s not on the menu yet but will be coming soon.
Are you following Jeanne Muchnick?
Craving more details on dining and entertainment in the Lower Hudson Valley? My weekly newsletter is free — and often includes behind-the-scenes info I don’t always share in my stories like fun facts, tasty tidbits and my best bites of the week. Sign up at profile.lohud.com/newsletters/manage.
Jeanne Muchnick covers food and dining. Click here for her most recent articles and follow her latest dining adventures on Instagram @jeannemuchnick or via the lohudfood newsletter.
This article originally appeared on Rockland/Westchester Journal News: New Westchester restaurant serves familiar meals with unexpected twists
Reporting by Jeanne Muchnick, Rockland/Westchester Journal News / Rockland/Westchester Journal News
USA TODAY Network via Reuters Connect
