Pepe’s Cantina Mexican Grill is a franchise with restaurants dotted all over Florida, but the first Treasure Coast location brings a very personal touch. There’s ease here.
The Port St. Lucie family restaurant’s owner, Hector Alarcon, summed up his philosophy that is both humorous and liberating as he delivered a second bowl of chips and salsa: There is only one rule — no judging.
The ambience is hip and contemporary rather than themed or kitschy. The space is generously sized, framed by tall windows, furnished with colorful booths, black tables and chairs, modern wall sconces and bamboo pendant lights that soften the edges.
At one end, a muted quadriptych creates a poetic counterpoint to the energy of the room. It depicts a farmer standing amidst his crops and gazing toward a glowing sunset. At the other end, the bar twinkles with backlit shelves, hanging greenery and a dramatic multi-light chandelier.
Mexican music hums easily upbeat without competing with conversation.
The menu is joyfully extensive, yet focused. There’s a full lineup for every appetite, including tableside guacamole, tacos, fajitas, chimichangas, quesadillas, burritos and enchiladas. Vegan options are thoughtfully included as well as heartier entrees such as churrasco, carne asada and seafood dishes to satisfy both modern and traditional tastes.
We started with shredded chicken empanadas ($12.50), which were crisp and golden and served with a tangy cilantro-garlic aioli that demanded to be dipped. We couldn’t resist queso fundido ($13), which was molten creamy cheese, chorizo and pico de gallo all melded together.
Hubby and I were distracted and chatting about something obviously earth-shattering but forgettable because the next time I looked down, the queso was gone.
The ground beef chimichanga ($19) was the size of Mexico and the definition of comfort food. Crispy and hearty, with a cheesy meaty center, it was paired with lettuce; pico de gallo; sweet, caramelized plantains; and soothing, well-seasoned pinto beans.
The fajitas ($25.50) were served with appropriate drama, sizzling loudly and announcing its arrival. The platter was heaped with a generous combination of chicken and beef nestled among sweet sauteed peppers and onions. In a supporting role, the yellow rice, black beans, pico de gallo, guacamole, and sour cream were anything but an afterthought.
Everything is housemade but the tortillas, which are sourced locally. Service throughout the evening was attentive and genuinely warm, reinforcing the family-run feel of the restaurant.
When I walk into a restaurant, especially to review for TCPalm, I arrive with all my senses switched on. I notice the light, the sound, the vitality of the space and how it makes me feel. Texture, colors and sounds all register quietly to form my impressions. Long before the first bite, a restaurant tells you who it is if you listen.
Pepe’s Cantina hums with welcoming energy yet remains comfortable. The food is skillfully and generously served. Hector’s single rule — no judging — is an invitation to come along for the ride, order your heart’s desire, and have fun.
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Pepe’s Cantina Mexican Grill
Lucie Regensdorf dines anonymously at the expense of TCPalm. Contact her at Lucie@theloveofcooking.com.
This article originally appeared on Treasure Coast Newspapers: Florida Mexican restaurant chain opens Port St. Lucie grill and cantina
Reporting by Lucie Regensdorf, Special to TCPalm / Treasure Coast Newspapers
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