In the wintertime – when the asparagus makes its long journey from Chile or Peru and arrives in the produce section worn and woody – I blast it in the broiler with a heavy pour of oil and several pinches of salt. But in the springtime, as the shoots are ready to pick in southwest Ohio, all they need is quick blanch, steam or boil. Even a tender raw stalk to nibble on will do.
At its peak, asparagus tastes like warmth and sunshine. Its tender stalks hold a slight nuttiness, a grassy finish, a discernable sweetness. Which is why, when it appears on spring menus at restaurants, I cross my fingers, hoping it will arrive at my table mostly unadorned so its flavors have a chance to shine
At Danny Combs’ “mostly French” restaurant, Colette, sous chef Adam Ely gives locally grown asparagus a quick blanch then serves them atop pureed sunchokes that he confits with olive oil and herbs until they’re soft as a cloud. The spears are sprinkled with freeze-dried sunchokes that have a bacon-like texture but aren’t nearly as overpowering. Those creative additions still allow the asparagus to shine, proving Ely is a chef who cares deeply about the honesty of his food and the true flavors of the season.
Colette, 1400 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, 513-381-1018, coletteotr.com.
Highly Recommended is a weekly spotlight on some of food writer Keith Pandolfi’s favorite finds as he eats his way across Greater Cincinnati. Come back every Tuesday for more.
This article originally appeared on Cincinnati Enquirer: Spring flavors shine with this highly recommended dish at Colette
Reporting by Keith Pandolfi, Cincinnati Enquirer / Cincinnati Enquirer
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