Arlene’s, the Fletcher Place restaurant with an emphasis on Southern comfort that last month replaced acclaimed brunch spot Milktooth, may have been outside the comfort zones of Indianapolis residents.
Chef-owner Jonathan Brooks announced June 2 on social media that Milktooth will revert to its original concept June 4, effectively ending Arlene’s tenure after just four weeks. Brooks cited “horrendous” sales in the restaurant’s first month as the motivation for reversing course.
“I’m super super disappointed as I was in love with the food and concept,” Brooks said in the Tuesday evening post, noting that he is putting his ego aside and “giving the people back what they want.”
Brooks first announced the pivot away from Milktooth after 12 successful years in December. The veteran restaurateur said the move came out of a desire to take a creative risk and try something new, an opportunity seldom afforded to restaurant owners in a famously unforgiving industry.
Arlene’s largely upended the status quo at Milktooth, swapping out eclectic Dutch baby pancakes, artisanal sandwiches and other morning fare for a Southern-inspired meat-and-three menu heavy on smoked meats and nap-inducing sides. The menu at Arlene’s was inspired by the food Brooks and his siblings grew up eating on childhood trips to their grandmother’s home near Nashville, and it was named in honor of Brooks’ mother.
A nod to Arlene’s will remain a fixture on Milktooth’s menu, according to Brooks’ post, likely a meat-and-three plate starring the short-lived concept’s tremendously crackly fried chicken.
Brooks told IndyStar ahead of Arlene’s opening that he hoped even skeptical Milktooth loyalists would give the new restaurant a try. In his post announcing the quick turnaround, Brooks thanked both those who did and didn’t share his passion for the restaurant’s new direction.
“Love you all and the most love to my wonderful employees who joined me out in the limb!” Brooks said, “Never be afraid to take a chance!”
Brooks concluded the announcement with the declaration that he will see his customers soon — this time, once again, for brunch.
Contact dining reporter Bradley Hohulin at bhohulin@indystar.com. You can follow him on Instagram @BradleyHohulin and stay up to date with Indy dining news by signing up for the Indylicious newsletter.
This article originally appeared on Indianapolis Star: Milktooth to return after new dining concept Arlene’s struggles
Reporting by Bradley Hohulin, Indianapolis Star / Indianapolis Star
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