Coventry Café sits right in the heart of downtown Stuart, tucked into the courtyard of The Old Colorado Inn. It’s a welcoming spot and manages to feel both casually tropical and quietly refined.
All dining here is outdoors, but fully under cover. On those rare, cool Florida evenings, heaters stand in for the familiar warmth.
The restaurant is open only Friday through Sunday.
The setting has a beach bar vibe with open spaces and live music. Bamboo-like wood paneling, woven mats and batik hangings create a layered, island-inspired backdrop to an eclectic menu. String lights crisscross overhead and rope chandeliers glow warmly as dusk settles in. Rustic wood tables paired with schoolhouse-styled chairs softened by green cushions add panache and polish.
The menu features small plates, including elegant steak tartare, sticky sesame chicken wings, buttermilk fried oysters, and smoky St. Louis ribs. Salads and lighter plates include kale Caesar salad and creamy burrata with peaches.
Entrees continue the theme of familiar classics with shrimp scampi, chicken parmesan, Scottish salmon, seared tuna au poivre, and a 12-ounce prime New York strip steak with bordelaise sauce.
We shared a plate of blistered shishitos ($9), a bold choice that kicked off the meal. These mild chili peppers were smoky and charred and, when dipped in tagarashi (a Japanese spice) aioli, the gentle heat did not overpower the sweetness of the peppers.
For something crisp and classic, the chopped wedge salad ($14) delivered cool and crunchy baby iceberg lettuce tossed with blue cheese, chunks of bacon and ripe tomatoes.
The Florida wahoo ($29) was a wonderful surprise. Large, meaty pieces of firm fish were glazed with savory miso, which also served as a saucy base. Wilted spinach and roasted mushrooms delivered earthy essence.
The Americana burger ($19) was a textbook smashburger done right. Cheddar melted into the craggy edges of the patty, caramelized onions brought sweetness, plus lettuce, tomatoes, pickles and a special sauce that tied it all together. As is the tradition, the large mound of crispy French fries no longer belonged to one person. These fries were worthy of stealing — encouraging bad manners and straining friendships.
The rigatoni alla vodka ($21) was indulgent and comforting. Giant tubes of pasta were coated in pink vodka sauce and finished with mozzarella, ricotta and basil.
The Prince Edward Island mussels ($15-$21) were plump, tender mussels, bobbing around in a coconut red curry broth and layered with crispy shallots, garlic and fresh herbs. I couldn’t stop dipping the garlic bread into the aromatic broth.
Coventry Café is the kind of restaurant where the setting lures you in and makes you linger. There is the glow of lights, the easy rhythm of music, and the menu that encourages sharing, or stealing, and trying something different.
Coventry Café
Lucie Regensdorf dines anonymously at the expense of TCPalm. Contact her at Lucie@theloveofcooking.com.
This article originally appeared on Treasure Coast Newspapers: Florida restaurant serves tapas and classic entrees in beach bar vibe
Reporting by Lucie Regensdorf, Special to TCPalm / Treasure Coast Newspapers
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