When I think of the seafood dishes I miss the most, the Sea Delico pizza at Uno’s tops the list. It was an acquired taste, sure, but I loved it when I was in my 20s. The deep-dish pie was topped with crab, shrimp and cream sauce that tasted, if I remember correctly, kind of like an alfredo.
While the Delico might be gone, there are some other seafood-focused dishes of the past for which I’ve found adequate substitutes.
I suppose this story ties in with the Lenten season, but I hope it helps anyone who’s favorite fish log, Red Lobster go-to or swordfish entree has been lost at sea over the years.
If you miss the fried shrimp po’boy at Allyn’s Cafe … try the version at The Frank
One of my favorite sandwiches right now is the shrimp po’boy at The Frank in Lower Price Hill. Chef Steven Graham – a Midwest Culinary Institute graduate whom I first wrote about when he opened Shango’s Urban Taqueria in Norwood’s Factory 52 – makes his po’boy with plump Gulf shrimp, topped with cool and crunchy shredded lettuce, tomato and Graham’s house-made remoulade sauce. While it’s not an authentic New Orleans po’ boy (you need French bread from Leidenheimer Baking Company for that), it’s almost as delicious.
The Frank, 900 State Ave., Lower Price Hill, 513-999-8888.
If you miss the swordfish at J’s Fresh Seafood … try the version at Forno Osteria & Bar
For those who don’t remember J’s, it was one of the buzziest restaurants in town back in the 1990s. As a 20-something, I was a fan of their fried shrimp, but my parents loved the swordfish (then a hard thing to come by in Cincinnati). Up until a few years ago, I never considered myself a swordfish fan, until I tried it at Forno, in Hyde Park. Here chef and owner Cristian Pietoso gives it the Italian treatment, serving it with tiny spheres of fregola sarda (a nutty Sardinian pasta), with big, briny capers and Italian olives.
3514 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, 513-818-8720, and 9415 Montgomery Road, Montgomery, 513-231-5555, fornoosteriabar.com.
If you miss the lobster rolls at Court Street Lobster Bar … try the ones at Lobsta Bakes of Maine
I wasn’t living in Cincinnati when Court Street Lobster Bar was around. But I recall how upset people were when it closed following the pandemic, in 2021.
If you’re craving a Maine-style lobster roll, head to Newtown, where Lobsta Bakes of Maine makes a version that will have even the most die-hard Mainer feel at home. During the winter months, the rolls are only available Friday and Saturday nights, but you can find them more often during the summer. If you’re looking for lobster rolls that are readily available year round, try The Governor Modern Diner, in Milford, where they are served with lemon mayonnaise and browned butter.
3533 Church St., Newtown, 513-561-0444, lobstabakes.com.
If you miss the lobster bisque at the Maisonette … try the version at Le Bar a Boeuf
I never made it to the Maisonette, but I know its lobster bisque was the stuff of legend. Developed by executive chef Pierre Adrian, it was beloved by many discerning Cincinnati diners. If you find yourself craving that rich, sweet bisque, make a reservation at Le Bar a Boeuf, where they still use the late Jean-Robert de Cavel’s recipe.
De Cavel’s recipe does differ a little from Adrian’s, according to Adrian’s daughter, Suzy DeYoung. After taking over the kitchen at Maisonette, de Cavel decided to make his version with a bit less cream and flour. At Le Bar a Boeuf, it’s topped with a subtly sweetened cream with hints of vanilla. While both Adrian and de Cavel are sadly gone, this restaurant helps keep their spirits (and their cooking) alive.
2200 Victory Parkway, East Walnut Hills, 513-751-2333, lebaraboeuf.com.
If you miss raw oysters at Atwood … try the ones at Sen
I was happy when Pearl Star Oyster Bar, which shuttered and reopened as Atwood Oyster Bar, was in Over-the-Rhine. Both restaurants provided casual spots where I could sidle up to the bar after work and order a dozen bivalves with a cold long-neck beer. While Atwood closed late last year, there are still good casual oyster spots to be found, including Wayfarer Tavern, in Dayton, Kentucky, and Covalt Station, in Milford.
My favorite place for an oyster fix is Sen, chef Hideki Harada’s seafood shop at Findlay Market. Here you can pop in while shopping and suck down a half dozen perfect oysters in no time flat (seating is sparse, and you’ll likely end up standing while you eat). These are no ordinary oysters, either. Harvested from the waters of the Delaware Bay, Washington State, New Brunswick and Barnstable, Massachusetts, they are the freshest, cleanest and most expertly shucked bivalves you’ll find in the Ohio River Valley.
106 W. Elder St., Over-the-Rhine, 513-813-3284.
If you miss the fish log at the Old Timber Inn … try the ones at State Line Restaurant
Like a lot of people, I often drove past the Old Timber Inn for years, asking myself out loud, “What in the heck is a fish log?” without ever trying one. When owner Elmer Ferguson died in 2022, I figured my chance to do so was over. That is until I visited State Line Restaurant, where fish logs remain on the menu. Even though it’s located just across the Ohio state line, in Lawrenceburg, Indiana, State Line specializes in Queen City classics such as Cincinnati-style chili, house-made goetta, burgers topped with tartar sauce, mock turtle soup and a fish log entree that includes two crispy planks of hand-breaded Icelandic cod fried to a perfect golden brown. While they may not be Elmer’s original, they’re well worth trying.
55 US-50, Lawrenceburg, 812-537-4558, statelinerestaurant.com.
If you miss shrimp scampi at Red Lobster … try the version at Losanti
I couldn’t get enough of Red Lobster’s shrimp scampi when I was a kid. In my memory, it tasted like a perfect mouthwatering combination of white wine, lots of garlic and butter. But with all of the Red Lobster closures we’ve been seeing the past two years (and more scheduled to come), it might be time for long-time fans to come up with a few alternatives.
One option is Losanti, the steakhouse located in Over-the-Rhine. Using a recipe developed by owner Anthony Sitek, an Italian American who grew up in Jersey, they use Florida rock shrimp sauteed in white wine and a compound butter of garlic, Fresno chilies, tarragon, parsley, thyme and lemon zest, adding a brightness that far outshines Red Lobster’s version. Instead of a mound of pasta, Sitek serves his scampi with crusty grilled ciabatta that’s perfect for sponging up any leftover sauce.
1401 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, 513-246-4213, losantisteakhouse.com.
This article originally appeared on Cincinnati Enquirer: These seafood dishes don’t exist anymore, so we found replacements
Reporting by Keith Pandolfi, Cincinnati Enquirer / Cincinnati Enquirer
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