The scent of fresh-brewed coffee meets the nostalgic hum of a historic storefront at Citrus Grove Cafe, where co-owner/manager Julie Sheehan is building something more than a restaurant.
She’s building a “second kitchen” for the community.
The newest addition to the downtown Eustis dining scene is a true family affair, co-owned by Sheehan with husband, Bjarki Bjornsson, an Icelandic native who’s made a name for himself in The Villages dining scene.
Walk into Citrus Grove Cafe on any given morning, and you might see Sheehan’s mother, Cathy, or her mother-in-law, Anna, helping out.
We also get the impression that this is a place that thinks outside the box.
Its “baptism by fire” opening during the recent Japan Festival not only left the cafe “unscathed,” but was a resounding success, thanks to a philosophy Julie holds dear:
“If you put all you got into it, the community will give you all of that back.”
From the Gulf Coast to the Golden Triangle
Sheehan’s journey to the kitchen was shaped by both professional lineage and personal resilience. She’s endured the most heartbreaking loss, the loss of a child, but like her son, who had a big heart and zesty spirit for adventure, Julie keeps going and doesn’t take joy and love for granted.
The daughter of an executive chef for Gulf Coast casinos, she was born at the old Waterman Hospital in Tavares but spent her youth in New Orleans and Mississippi.
When Hurricane Katrina devastated the Louisiana coast during her senior year of high school, Sheehan returned to Lake County to finish her education. After a number of years in the restaurant industry – including time at Sonny’s BBQ in Tavares, where she met Bjornsson – the pull of home and family became undeniable for Sheehan.
“We decided to come back home (to the Lake County area) to be closer to our moms,” Sheehan recalled.
“I told my husband, ‘Chris’s Place is selling that location in downtown Eustis. That’s such a cute little downtown.’ ”
Carving out their own name
Despite Citrus Grove’s name similarity to other Florida spots, Sheehan is quick to note that her cafe is completely independent and trademarked, with its own slogan: “Zest up your day at the Citrus.”
Also, juice is not their specialty – yet. As she prepares to officially change her last name to Bjornsson later this month, Sheehan is embracing a season of new beginnings – a new marriage, a stepson, 5-year-old Aksel, and a new role as a cornerstone of the Eustis business community.
“The other business owners have treated me like family,” she says, citing the warm welcomes from neighbors at the flower shop and nearby restaurants.
“They weren’t upset because another restaurant was coming here. That’s what matters.”
The heart of Chris’s Place still beats inside
The transition from Citrus Grove’s previous incarnation, Chris’s Place, to the present-day cafe marks a significant chapter in Eustis’ downtown culture.
During our visit, we saw that the heart of Chris McCollum’s venture lives on at the new establishment through his mother, Ruth, who stops in as a source of unwavering support and a familiar, comforting presence for the establishment’s owners and the community.
Her dedication is especially poignant as Chris continues his courageous battle with cancer. Even as they navigate these challenging health circumstances, Ruth’s morale-boosting at Citrus Grove ensures that the spirit of family love and hospitality continues to welcome and inspire everyone they serve.
“She has definitely been a saving grace,” Sheehan said of the previous owner’s mom, who brought a bouquet of flowers on display at the front of the restaurant during their opening week.
A menu that’s continuously evolving
At Citrus Grove Cafe, the kitchen doesn’t believe in the “breakfast cutoff.” Whether you are a night-shift janitor looking for a cheeseburger at 7 a.m. or a retiree craving sunny-side-up eggs in the afternoon, Citrus Grove’s policy is simple: if the doors are open, the full menu is available.
“I want somebody to be able to get something that they like, whatever menu it’s on,” Sheehan explains. “I want you to feel like this is your second home.”
While the biscuits and gravy and French toast have already emerged as customer favorites, the menu is a work in progress, intentionally kept “fluid” as Julie listens to what the Eustis community craves.
At lunch, try the smashburger, a favorite of neighbor artist Kelley Batson.
Sheehan is emphatic about the Citrus Grove food being made from scratch. Except for some condiments, she cooks everything by hand. From crispy battered chicken tenders topping a fresh salad to the zingy citrus vinaigrette, it’s all homemade.
(Side note: Some folks on social media recently praised the crepes made from scratch. We’ll have to try those on our next visit!)
‘Easter Eggs,’ symbolic decor and tributes
The cafe’s interior is a gallery of personal and local history.
Sheehan worked with the local Historical Society and “Historian Dave” from across the street to honor the building’s past as an old hardware company.
The decor features “Easter eggs” for those who look closely:
Piping and shelving that pay homage to the building’s hardware store roots.
A private piece of artwork created by Julie’s father, James, a professional graphic designer, featuring the cafe’s logo, along with other Florida-themed pieces he created.
Touches of the breakfast diner Julie’s mother ran in Winter Garden for 30 years can also be seen. The kids’ menu’s “Aksel Lotls” combines the name of Bjarki’s son with axolotl (a larval aquatic salamander) and time-passing activities.
A Libra scale sits in the restaurant, a quiet tribute to Julie’s late son, Seth Cowley, who died in January last year at age 18.
Citrus Grove Cafe is located at 312 N. Bay St., Eustis, and serves breakfast and lunch daily from 7 am to 2:30 p.m. Visit the website at citrusgrovecafe.com and follow the restaurant on social media for updates on Facebook and Instagram. Or call 352-977-3106.
This article originally appeared on Daily Commercial: Citrus Grove Cafe in Eustis is a ‘second kitchen’ for the community
Reporting by Julie Garisto, Leesburg Daily Commercial / Daily Commercial
USA TODAY Network via Reuters Connect
