At Jay’s Nyam & Jam at Findlay Market, Jhanel Johnson stands behind the counter welcoming customers and taking orders. Behind her, a small assembly line of workers chat and laugh with one another as they prep, cook and package those orders at a perfect clip. Everyone here is smiling, something I don’t see much in restaurant kitchens anymore.
The Jamaican take-out spot is the brainchild of Jamaican native Jermaine Vassell and his wife, Dr. Kelly Vassell, who grew up in Forest Park. It launched in 2022, hosting small dinners and catering events for family and friends. And it gained an intense following after doing pop-ups at Findlay Market, Blink and Taste of Cincinnati.
In April, Jay’s began a 15-month residency at the market as part of the Findlay Launch Storefront Accelerator program, which helps prepare would-be restauranteurs for their own brick-and-mortar spots. Based on my one and only visit there, it’s already operating like a well-oiled machine that’s been around for years.
While the Findlay location is temporary, it also feels personal. On the walls are framed photos of Bob Marley and Jermaine’s native Montego Bay. There are a few small tables inside and five or six on a patio out front, but most customers order takeout.
The food is inspired by Jermaine’s late father, Ashton, who taught him how to cook, and it includes lovingly prepared dishes such as honey jerk lemon pepper wings, oxtail platters, jerk tacos and curry vegetables. If you love Jamaican food, Jermaine’s cooking should make you swoon.
The Rasta Pasta, a spicy penne and cream sauce dish made popular in the 1980s, might make you utter silent words of praise – or, in my case, a “holy (expletive)” – as you savor the sweet Scotch bonnet heat of its cream sauce. Tender jerk chicken breast, served on top of the pasta, is easily shredded with a fork so you can blend in its spicy, smoky flavors.
Even better is the oxtail platter. The rich, robust meat melts off the bone, and a side caramelized cabbage, peppers and Jamaican seasoning provides a sweet and sour counterpoint. I should note that the portions here are quite large and, as I write this, I am still picking at my leftovers.
After finishing my lunch at an outdoor table at Jay’s, I did something kind of unusual and, perhaps, unprofessional. I went back inside and exclaimed to the entire staff how utterly amazing everything was. Walking back to my car afterward, I felt a little embarrassed by my enthusiasm. But if I’m going to share the joy that good, honest food brings me, Jay’s is the place to do it.
Jay’s Nyam & Jam, 1809 Elm St., Findlay Market, Over-the-Rhine, thejnjs.com. Hours: 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Thursday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday.
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This article originally appeared on Cincinnati Enquirer: This new Jamaican restaurant left our food writer swearing in delight
Reporting by Keith Pandolfi, Cincinnati Enquirer / Cincinnati Enquirer
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