Cincinnati chefs have strong feelings about the Michelin Guide coming to Cincinnati. Some plan to go all out for a chance to earn one of the its coveted stars, while others are embracing more of a business-as-usual approach, hoping what they’re doing already is enough to win judges over. One thing’s for sure. All of the chefs I talked to think the city’s inclusion in the guide is long overdue.
Michelin announced the addition of Cincinnati to the American Great Lakes edition, which originally included Cleveland, Detroit, Indianapolis, Milwaukee, Minneapolis and Pittsburgh. While judges are already scouring the city for reservations, we won’t know their findings until the new guide is released in 2027.
“I think it will give more credibility to restaurants here,” said Sarah Dworak, the James Beard-nominated chef and owner of Sudova, in Over-the-Rhine. While she isn’t planning to change things to win over judges, she would love to see the Eastern European-themed restaurant she opened to honor her Ukrainian roots earn a star or two.
Dworak said Cincinnati’s eligibility for Michelin stars might also help lure chefs from other cities who have had their eye on getting one. “It is easy to enter the space here in Cincinnati because it is not like Chicago,” she said. “And we have a lot of empty space here.”
For chef Jeff Harris, the James Beard-nominated owner and chef of Nolia Kitchen, in Over-the-Rhine, a Michelin star is a long-standing goal. Two years ago, he placed a blue sticker on the hood of his oven reading “Mission Michelin,” so everyone who worked or dined at his restaurant could see it. “It’s our time,” Harris said.
What many diners might not realize is that a restaurant doesn’t have to be a fancy fine-dining establishment to receive Michelin recognition.
Along with stars, Michelin also awards what’s known as the Bib Gourmand, which recognizes restaurants that serve good food at moderate prices. According to Michelin’s website, they are judged by the same five criteria used for starred restaurants.
The Guide will also include “selected” restaurants, which, according to Michelin, indicates a chef is using quality ingredients that are well-cooked and provide “a good meal.” According to Michael Ellis, international director of the Michelin Guide books, “it means that the inspectors have found the food to be above average, but not quite at star or Bib level.” That means local spots such as Zip’s or Camp Washington Chili could be eligible.
“I guess it is a nice addition and it’s great to see some recognition for the city,” said Hideki Harada, a James Beard semifinalist who owns Kiki, in Clifton, and the eight-seat omakase spot Roji, on Court Street, Downtown. “I would love to see Roji get a star, or for Kiki to get a Gourmand award. That would be great.”
But Harada said such awards and recognitions can often be a double-edge sword.
“Stars do freak me out a little,” Harada said. “A long time ago, a chef told me that accolades never put money in the bank. It takes paying attention to the service and the guests. Notoriety gives you an immediate boost in business, but you’re always under pressure to be the best. I am more of a community guy than a chasing awards guy.”
This article originally appeared on Cincinnati Enquirer: Michelin is coming to Cincinnati and local chefs are pumped
Reporting by Keith Pandolfi, Cincinnati Enquirer / Cincinnati Enquirer
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By Keith Pandolfi, Cincinnati Enquirer | USA TODAY Network
