Italian dining in the Des Moines metro isn’t just flourishing — it’s earning national attention. Across the city, a collection of standout restaurants has carved out its place on the culinary map through atmosphere, craft and acclaimed talent recognized by the James Beard Foundation.
From a Victorian‑era mansion in Sherman Hill to a bustling downtown dining room in the restored Masonic Temple, these spots showcase the range and refinement of Iowa’s Italian scene. Their chefs and owners — whether reimagining century‑old spaces, perfecting handmade pastas or cultivating a culture of hospitality so warm it draws lines out the door — have helped define the region’s reputation for destination‑worthy dining. Together, Aposto, Centro, Lucca and Simon’s illustrate how Des Moines blends character, creativity and tradition, offering dishes rooted in family heritage, meticulous technique and unwavering dedication. Consider this your guide to the metro’s most celebrated Italian tables.
Aposto
Inside an 1880 Victorian mansion in Sherman Hill, Aposto is one of Des Moines’ most atmospheric dining rooms — romantic, candlelit and intimate, with tucked‑away parlors and a wraparound porch perfect for summer nights. Originally opened as Café di Scala in 2004, the restaurant rebranded to Aposto in 2015 under owner Tony Lemmo, who celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2025.
Aposto carries historical James Beard ties: during the Café di Scala era, chef Phil Shires earned Best Chef Midwest recognition. Today, dishes rotate seasonally under chef Cole Gruis. Three standouts include the osso bucco with carrot risotto, crab‑and‑brown‑butter gnocchi and the cavatelli rooted in the Lemmo family tradition.
Details: 644 18th St., Des Moines, 515-244-1353, apostodm.com.
Centro
A fixture of downtown dining since 2002, Centro offers an urban Italian atmosphere energized by its bustling open kitchen, lively bar and sleek historic setting inside the restored Masonic Temple building. Chef George Formaro, who opened the restaurant in November 2002, built Centro into the city’s go‑to spot for everything from coal‑fired pizzas to refined pasta plates.
Centro’s James Beard connection comes through Formaro himself, recognized among Iowa’s notable Beard‑nominated chefs. He earned Best Chef Midwest nods in 2008 through 2010 and Outstanding Restaurateur accolades in 2013 and 2014. Standout dishes include the chicken saltimbocca, handmade ricotta gnocchi and Portobello fries, as well as the coal-fired pizzas. For cocktails, the bar is known for its $8 martinis during happy hour.
Details: 1003-1011 Locust St., Des Moines, 515‑244‑7033, centrodesmoines.com.
Lucca
Inside a restored 1880s building in the East Village, Lucca blends modernist minimalism with old‑brick warmth. Owner Steve Logsdon — a four-time James Beard Best Chef: Midwest semifinalist from 2009 to 2012 — opened Lucca in 2004, transforming a space once damaged by fire into one of Des Moines’ favorite Italian dining rooms.
Lucca focuses on a prix fixe format for dinner with house pastas and seasonal entrées and à la carte options at lunch. Try the cracked pepper or spinach ricotta pastas and pair them with a Lucca salad, brimming with chicken, bacon and a creamy Parmesan dressing. Go for the New York strip, pork ribeye or scallops on the dinner menu. The restaurant intentionally avoids craft cocktails, keeping the focus on food and wine.
Details: 420 E. Locust St., Des Moines, 515‑243‑1115, luccadsm.com.
Simon’s
A cozy neighborhood Italian dinner house, Simon’s is defined by warm hospitality — so warm that the line regularly forms down the block before opening, although the addition of a cocktail lounge next door ensures customers are comfortable with a drink while waiting. Owner Simon Goheen purchased the restaurant (formerly J. Benjamin’s) in 2005, and Simon’s has since become a community institution where Goheen personally welcomes guests. The restaurant earned a 2025 James Beard semifinalist nod for Outstanding Hospitality.
While the menu leans classic Italian comfort, three favorites include lasagna, beef stroganoff and the complimentary red velvet cake that arrives at the end of every meal. Simon’s is less about mixology and more about a convivial lounge where drinks arrive while diners play board games, waiting for their table.
Details: 5800 Franklin Ave., Des Moines, 515-255-3725, simonsdsm.com.
Sign up for our dining newsletter, Table Talk DSM, which comes out on Wednesday mornings with all the latest news on restaurants and bars in the metro. You can sign up for free at DesMoinesRegister.com/tabletalk.
Susan Stapleton is the entertainment editor and dining reporter at The Des Moines Register. Follow her on Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram, or drop her a line at sstapleton@gannett.com.
This article originally appeared on Des Moines Register: Award-winning Italian gems have helped define dining in Des Moines
Reporting by Susan Stapleton, Des Moines Register / Des Moines Register
USA TODAY Network via Reuters Connect




