The Salty Pelican Fish Shack’s location in Hobe Sound has lived a few lives. Locals may remember it as the Catfish House or briefly as Taste, but now it’s gotten its sea legs and fully embraced a playful beachy identity.
Starfish and shells are tangled in fishing nets draped across the walls. Colorful shards of sea glass glint like hidden treasures. Oversized rope fixtures spread like the tentacles of an octopus. Walls are blue and sandy beige, and tables are laminated with beach scenes.
A smiling fish hugs the salt and pepper shakers on each table. Several televisions keep things lively inside, while a covered patio hosts live music outdoors from Thursday through Sunday.
Florida seafood restaurant dressed in nautical decor
The menu arrives as a double-sided placemat and covers just about everything. Raw bar, soups, salads, fried baskets, grilled seafood, ribeye, Friday prime rib and burgers are all there. Vegetarians have choices such as coral reef cauliflower or sautéed portobello mushrooms.
Our server, Matt, set the ambience early by walking us through the menu. He offered recommendations with ease and delivered a warm basket of cornbread with hush puppies.
We started with the crabby patties ($22). Two pan-seared crab cakes lounged lazily on a beach towel of tartar sauce. The crab was plentiful and the flavors were clean and bright with a gentle lift of lemon and a whisper of Old Bay. The cakes were served with a side of remoulade sauce for a little kick.
Menu includes grouper, crab cakes, cod fish and chips
The Mister ordered Maverick’s fish & chips ($25), which arrived with a piece of cod the size of a small watercraft. The batter was light and crisp, giving way to fish that was moist, flaky and satisfyingly meaty.
Tucked beside the fish, the fries refused to be upstaged and definitely got our attention. They were piping hot and perfectly seasoned. The coleslaw, however, was bland and not memorable.
On Matt’s recommendation, I ordered the shipwreck grouper ($28) and it was impressive. I typically shy away from fish topped or stuffed with crabmeat because it can be overly rich and overshadow the fish. But this dish struck a beautiful balance.
Like a formally dressed guest at a beach party
The grouper, floating on a bed of mashed potatoes, was tender and delicate, while the crab added a luxurious richness without overpowering. The silky beurre blanc sauce tied it all together.
The whole dish had a composed, polished feel that completely belied the laid-back nautical surroundings. It was like finding a formally dressed guest at a beach party.
A particularly nice touch came when one of the owners, Terri, stopped by our table to check in and thank us for visiting. It was a small gesture, but carried a layer of personal attention and warmth. It had the sensation of being welcomed into someone’s home if that person served excellent seafood and had a penchant for fish ornamentation.
Salty Pelican Fish Shack manages to strike a balance between fun and relaxed on the surface, yet thoughtful and refined where it counts. It’s a little unexpected, a little quirky, and completely enjoyable.
Salty Pelican Fish Shack in Hobe Sound
Lucie Regensdorf dines anonymously at the expense of TCPalm. Contact her at Lucie@theloveofcooking.com.
This article originally appeared on Treasure Coast Newspapers: Old Florida seafood restaurant a formally dressed guest at beach party
Reporting by Lucie Regensdorf, Special to TCPalm / Treasure Coast Newspapers
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By Lucie Regensdorf, Special to TCPalm | USA TODAY Network
