Lounging along the shoreline inside Hutchinson Shores Resort & Spa, Drift Kitchen & Bar manages to be both an unmistakable hotel and destination restaurant.
The setting achieves much of the seduction. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the Atlantic in a magical way with waves rolling in on cue and the horizon stretching endlessly beyond your table. Inside, the design favors coastal elegance.
We were greeted by the hostess at a glass-topped driftwood checkpoint. A look around revealed a large bar backed by tall cubicles of spirits rising like a beloved library. Blond wooden beams, white wicker pendants and booths reminiscent of a woven beach mat conjure a relaxed seaside vacation.
Florida waterfront restaurant
The dinner menu appeals to both vacationers and locals alike. Seafood leads naturally, but handmade pastas, pizzas and grilled meats broaden the choices. Our server, Mason, was not content to just leave us alone with the menu but happily and gently guided us through the highlights.
He steered us toward the sweet blue crab cake ($23), confidently noting its award-winning status. Abundant fresh crab held together with minimal filler was sweet and briny. Smoky charred corn salsa with a lemon caper aioli brought just the right amount of zing. The award was well-deserved.
We shared the broken Caesar salad ($14), which was given an unfortunate name for something so put together. Crisp, cool greens were topped with herb focaccia croutons, shaved cheese and crunchy parmesan panko. The dressing was light and balanced proving that a light touch on Caesar salad is perfect.
Steak and seafood restaurant with an Italian twist
Deciding on an entrée was no small feat. The rock shrimp linguine made a strong case for itself. The honey-glazed parmesan salmon with coconut rice checked every appealing box. The slow-braised short rib whispered promises of comfort.
In the end, the day boat scallops ($56 at market price) won the battle and were extraordinary. Perfectly pan-seared scallops were tender, caramelized and sweet sitting atop a luscious shrimp and corn risotto with roasted peppers and peas for contrast. The Key lime butter sauce elevated the dish to truly memorable with a distinctly Floridian flourish.
My husband ordered the center-cut filet ($57), which leaned more medium than the requested medium-rare, but was so tender and flawlessly seasoned that it seemed irrelevant. Served with garlic mashed potatoes, charred asparagus and a silky pinot noir jus, it delivered all the classic steakhouse comfort he had craved.
Coastal dining with fish, shrimp, salmon, scallops and more
For dessert, the chocolate lava cake ($19) made an entrance and erupted as if on cue, spilling its molten center with flair. A scoop of salty caramel gelato ($5) played the cool counterpart with rich indulgence and decisiveness.
A beautiful restaurant in a beautiful setting, Drift Kitchen & Bar does not reinvent coastal dining but rather refines it.
When you’re sitting steps from the ocean, watching the light change on the water, the food should complement the experience, not compete with it. Here, the elegance is relaxed, the flavors are clean and confident, and the setting evokes the relaxation of a well-earned vacation.
Drift Kitchen & Bar in Jensen Beach
Lucie Regensdorf dines anonymously at the expense of TCPalm. Contact her at Lucie@theloveofcooking.com.
This article originally appeared on Treasure Coast Newspapers: Florida restaurant serves steak, seafood, Italian on oceanfront patio
Reporting by Lucie Regensdorf, Special to TCPalm / Treasure Coast Newspapers
USA TODAY Network via Reuters Connect
By Lucie Regensdorf, Special to TCPalm | USA TODAY Network
