Sylvan Lake — Egg dishes bursting with flavor, buttery house-made English muffins and bottomless cups of rich, strong coffee are just a few of the reasons I’ll drive across town to visit Ellen’s Bakery & Cafe.
And that’s just breakfast.
Ellen’s is also a hot spot for brunch and lunch and has a longstanding in-house bakery that operates as its own popular destination. Purchase a whole gorgeous cake, grab a pint of house-made ice cream (the coffee flavor with chunks of KitKat candy bars is my favorite) or just treat yourself with a little sugar cookie with precise, colorful frosting.
Whatever you do, don’t leave Ellen’s without a loaf of sourdough — pillowy soft on the inside, crusty perfection on the outside — to get you through the rest of the week. They’ll even slice it for you for sandwiches.
Driving down Orchard Lake Road through Sylvan Lake, you might miss Ellen’s, which is run by skilled baker Ellen Meyer-Kalergis and her husband, chef George Kalergis. It’s tucked into the corner of a strip mall between a pizza place and a hair salon. Even if you make it inside, it may at first strike you as an ordinary diner or breakfast joint.
It’s well above average, though, and that’s because of the thoughtful service, quality ingredients and incredible bang for your buck. If you’re tired of spending $50 per person for brunch, try Ellen’s.
Highlights of the breakfast and brunch menu include the feta scramble, bursting with fresh pesto, tangy diced tomatoes, and a generous helping of crumbled feta cheese. Upgrading to the duck fat potatoes is absolutely worth it, as they are a huge portion with savory pieces of potato I would describe as “thick shreds,” fried in duck fat and cooked with onions, a good amount of rosemary, and a bit of garlic.
If the duck fat home-fried potatoes are enticing, consider the allium-heavy duck confit hash with onions, garlic, scallions, and thyme as well. For a sweet start to your day, have the brioche French toast with fresh berries or chocolate chip pancakes.
All the bread used in dishes and served as sides is made in-house by Meyer-Kalergis’ bakery side staff. She and husband George, who runs the kitchen side, founded Ellen’s Bakery & Cafe more than a quarter century ago.
Bread is the star of the lunch menu, too, where a turkey and avocado pita, Asian chicken salad and burgers mingle with a list of pastas, quesadillas and tacos.
There are daily specials, like a recent crispy and flaky walleye sandwich on a house-made baguette loaded with a creamy aioli, capers, pickles, pickled onions, tomato and lettuce.
On the regular menu is a superb lamb burger that is loaded with a thick layer of earthy goat cheese that pairs well with the caramelized onion and fig jam. This is served on the house-baked challah roll. You can pick up a bag of those from the bakery on your way out.
Booze and coffee flow all the time, depending on what kind of day you’re gearing up for. There is enough to the beer and wine selection to please almost everyone, and the brunch crowd will be happy with the Bloody Marys made with Tito’s Vodka. I was highly impressed by their mimosa game: pretty much a full glass of prosecco with an eyedropper of freshly-squeezed orange juice.
It’s so clear you could almost read the paper through it.
mbaetens@detroitnews.com
Ellen’s Bakery & Cafe
2495 Orchard Lake Road, Sylvan Lake
(248) 681-5700, ellensbakeryandcafe.com
Rating: ★★★ (excellent)
Hours: Breakfast is served 8-11 a.m. Tues.-Fri. and 8 a.m.-1 p.m. Sat. Lunch hours are 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Tues.-Fri. and 1-3 p.m. Sat. Sunday is breakfast only 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Bakery is open 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Tues.-Sun. Both the restaurant and bakery are closed on Mondays.
Prices: Breakfast specials, $11.29-$19.99; breakfast sandwiches, $8.79-$17.99; omelets, $13.29 and up; breakfast sides, $2.29 and up; salads, $13.99 and up; lunch specials, $13.99-$23.99; burgers, $13.49-$16.99; sandwiches, $12.99-$14.79; beer, $4-$6.50; glass of wine, $8-$12; mimosas, $9; Bloody Mary, $10.
Reservations: No, and expect a bit of a wait on the weekends.
Carryout: Call in an order, place your to-go order at the counter, or order online through DoorDash.
Outdoor dining: Yes, there is a patio out front with some greenery for the warmer months.
Noise level: Low to moderate, no echoes or loud music
Dress code: None, come as you are
Accessibility: No barriers
Child-friendly: Yes
Parking: Free, on-site parking in the shopping plaza
What the stars mean:
★ — good
★★ — very good
★★★ — excellent
★★★★ — extraordinary
This article originally appeared on The Detroit News: Restaurant review: Ellen’s Bakery & Cafe rolls quality into every dish
Reporting by Melody Baetens, The Detroit News / The Detroit News
USA TODAY Network via Reuters Connect
