By Erin Fanning
A flash of black and white, skimming over the Boardman River, darted just outside my vision. It landed on my kayak, revealing itself to be a chalk-fronted corporal, a dragonfly common to Michigan’s lakes and rivers. Within seconds, though, it zoomed up into the sky.
As my kayak floated along, I titled my head upward. A cloud of chalk-fronted corporals danced above me. They hovered in place, communing together in a ritual based on instinct alone. Their purpose spoke of mystery and magic.
The sun beat down on me and the Boardman tugged me along, enveloping me in yet another day on northern Michigan’s rivers, where each bend reveals a bewitching new sight.
Although winter still grips most of northern Michigan, spring, perhaps the best paddling season, will soon arrive. Summer tourists are months away, and rivers run high and fast, making boulders and other debris easier to navigate.
While there are many intriguing rivers to explore, the following four are springboards for exploration and provide a taste of what to expect*.
Boardman River
Black River logjam.
Located in northwestern Michigan’s Kalkaska and Traverse Counties, the 28-mile Boardman River offers several sections of paddleable water. It melds forest and meadows with urban Traverse City, including the Keystone and Sabin Rapids, perhaps northern Michigan’s most thrilling paddle.
Those seeking more relaxing outings can put-in at Forks Forest Campground or the Brown Bridge Canoe Launch. Bottomline, the Boardman never fails to delight from nature preserves thick with trees and rolling hills to floating past cozy cottages and grand homes.
Au Sable River’s North Branch
Famous for its flyfishing, the North Branch is equally welcoming to paddlers with a favorite section running from the Dam 4 Road access site to the access site at the end of Morley Road. This paddle boasts a classic Michigan aura. It’s a peaceful float back in time with Au Sable riverboats, uninterrupted forest, and rippling water.
Black River
Winding its way for about 78 miles through Otsego, Montmorency, Presque Isle, and Cheboygan counties, the Black River hosts numerous recreational opportunities for water-lovers. Aggressive paddlers can tackle 18-20 miles from Clark Bridge Access Site to Tower Pond Park; however, two excellent shorter paddles are from Crocket Bridge, just off a two-track paralleling the river, to Milligan Road and County Road 638 to Tower Pond.
Unmaintained, the river drifts in and out of forest and past long stretches of open meadows. Debris and deadfall are common but usually don’t require portaging. As is true with so many northeastern Michigan rivers, it’s an experience that feels far removed from the 21st century
Serenity and solitude on the North Branch.
Upper Platte River
Cutting across northwestern Michigan for about 30 miles, the Platte River embraces paddlers. A particularly rewarding section rushes from the U.S. 31 Bridge/Veteran’s Memorial State Forest Campground, about 4 miles east of Honor, to the Platte River Park
With gentle rapids and stretches of flat water that wind through deep forest, this section also boasts dozens of weeping willows. Their long branches sweep over the narrow river, occasionally forcing one to paddle through their leaves, like kayaking through a giant’s hair.
Once, while taking a bend in the river, I encountered a bald eagle, perching less than 50 feet away. It rested on a branch, preening its wings and watching me approach. The day, quiet and watchful, settled around us. Eventually, the eagle tired of my presence and leapt from the branch, its enormous wings quickly carrying it away.
It reminded me that some of the best moments in life arrive in silence, so hushed that a kayak melds with the landscape. These experiences engrave upon our memories, enchanting us with clouds of dragonflies or the serenity of an eagle, synonymous with a day spent paddling Michigan’s rivers.
For more kayaking (and bicycling) adventures, visit https://michiganbiyaking.com/.
*Never forget that kayaking comes with a certain amount of risk, so it’s vital that you recreate wisely. This means taking responsibility to be both physically and mentally prepared for whatever you might encounter on the water.
