By Derek Smith
The following is the third chapter in a camping and cruising journal, detailing the camping and sailing events of a small party of outdoor enthusiasts, while they explore the great St Clair River, its tributaries, islands, and the St Clair Flats, within the St Clair County region.
The diary of events begins in the first week of July 1879. It is an interesting glimpse into the early days of outdoor life in the late 1870s. The travel log is historically engaging, as it tempts one’s curiosity into a past that was breathed 144 years ago.
I am grateful that the writer found the good sense to publish his journal, and that by Devine intervention, fortunate fate, or handsome circumstance his articles found my eye.
His writings will be published in a series of chapters over the next few weeks.
The have been some corrections to spelling but for the most part, the text is as originally written.
Cruise and Camp
July 7th 1879. Correspondence of the Times. Camp on Clark’s Island
“Walpole Island- On the River in a Squall- Mosquito Proof Quarters
at Algonac, Our Bill of Fare in Camp.
As our little boat drew near the shore of Walpole Island on the Saicarty Channel, on the morning of July 3rd we saw swimming toward us, in the clear water with head erect, something that appeared to the girl as terrible, as a genuine sea serpent might have appeared to the older members of the party. She gave a scream and covered her face with her hands, evidently fully convinced that we were about to be swallowed up; but a few words from the captain reassured her, and the boat was drawn up toward the creature, which proved to be a huge water snake. The sprit was an efficient weapon, and his snakeship was soon dispatched and towed ashore.
The bank at this part of the island is high, and covered with a beautiful grove in a part of which is an Indian burial ground. Our tent was soon pitched, and everything else in order for an afternoon’s rest. Dinner over, the older members of the party took their siesta, while the girl waded in the water and the boy threw his line, eventually, for fish. The wind had increased almost to a gale tossing the branches of the trees about, and fortunately driving away most of the mosquitoes with which the island swarms, but the Saicarty, protected by the high bank was as calm as a summer morn.
During the afternoon a number of Indians visited us, and one intelligent young fellow gave us considerable information regarding the island and its inhabitants. He said the grove in which we were encamped was public property and that the island was occasionally occupied entirely by Chippewa Indians, their number being almost 800 and its area was about 15,000 acres.
Most of the Indians he said, were in comfortable circumstances and many of them had good farms. Many Indian canoes passed along the channel during the afternoon, it being noticeable that not an Indian appeared in any other part of a craft and all of them rowed with the traditional paddle. Anybody but an Indian would never be able to keep one of those dugouts right side up. Most of them carried loads of baskets and we’re bound for market.
Professor Bigsby and his party not making their appearance, as had been expected, the wind being too high to allow small boats to cross the river from Algonac, supper was prepared early, and before 6:00 o’clock our tent was struck, luggage was stored away in the boat, and we were seen rounding the point into the main channel.
There the wind and waves came on us with a rush, and the mate, looked ruefully at the broad channel and long stretch of water down the river that we must cross to make Algonac with the wind “dead ahead”. It should be recorded, also, that for a moment her heart failed, and she suggested that we turn back to the island. But the captain didn’t rescind this time, having any fancy spending a night among all Walpole Island mosquitoes, and the steady course was held to the southwest.
the
fire is ready for the Waves were rolling high above the boat and twice its length but although the spray went over us, she rode the waves like a duck, and not a drop of water came over her side.
Confidence was soon restored, and 15 minutes sufficed to bring us to the American shore. With short “tacks” and finally a little pulling on the oars we reached Algonac about 7:00 o’clock without the slightest damage to the boat, crew, or cargo. But looking out on the whitecaps, we had no desire for further pleasure sailing that night.
We had been informed that comfortable quarters might be found at Jackson’s Hotel, Algonac,
and we came to the house, after having safely housed our boat in Smith’s boathouse, the site of mosquito nettings at all the windows encouraging, and reassured us, and the contract was soon made for rooms that should be mosquito proof. And let it be said that they have so proved and comfort and sound sleep o’ nights have since been allotted us.
The morning of the 4th found our party fully refreshed and ready for a perfect enjoyment of camp life. The sky was partially clouded, and threatened rain, the wind being nearly due west.
Sailing up the river some distance and bobbing down for a pickerel, the wind shifted and blew a gale from the north as we were opposite the lower end of Clark’s Island(sometimes called Russell’s Island) Spying an eligible place for camping, a little way up, we were there in a few minutes, and the remains of nearly a dozen old campfires showed that the place had attracted others before us. There our camp has been since, as we have found no pleasanter place.
Here let us pause to give details of a day’s camping.
Coming to shore, camp chest, tent, bed, hammock, cooking utensils, etc, are soon landed.
The captain lights the fire, while the mate unpacks the chest. This done, kettle, which is swung, and the water is soon boiling.
Then the coffee or teapot goes on the coals, and potatoes go into the kettle. The frying pan is next brought out, and fish eggs or meat go into it. Sometimes pancakes follow, our bread is toasted and treated with milk and butter. Crackers, biscuits, cakes, canned meats, etc, are served ad libitum.
Soups
Boeuf un pomme de terre. (Potato soup)
Turtle de Terre de l’eau (Turtle Soup)
Legume (Vegetable)
Fish
Pickerel au Skillet ( Fried Pickerel)
Perch un Fried (Fried Perch)
Boiled
Boeuf de la Corned ( Corned beef)
Poisson de Fresche( Fresh fish)
Fried
Poisson de Pickerel ( Pickerel)
Boeuf au Grideron ( Beef Steak)
Entrees
Boeuf au Sec (minute steak)
Fromage au chunk (chunk of cheese)
Boeuf de can ( Canned Beef)
De oeufs scramble ( Scrambled eggs)
Vegetables
Pomme de terre de skillet ( Pan fried potatoes)
Pomme de Terre a la boiled (boiled potatoes)
Potatoes de Buerre ( butter potatoes)
Ad Libitum
Pain au Lait (Milk Bread)
Toast au Lait ( Milk Toast)
Biscuit de Boston
Biscuit de Buerre (Butter Biscuit)
Gateau de Ginger (Ginger Cake)
Café au Lait ( Coffee with milk)
The Avec Sucre au Lait ( Tea with Sugar and Milk)
Dessert
Gateau de Pan( Pan Cake)
Sucre de Maple ( Maple sugar)
Strawberries au Sucre et Crème (Strawberries with Sugar and Cream)
Pomme de can (Canned Apples)
Pectures au Can (Canned Peaches)
Mush au Lait( Mushing Milk ?)
If this is a little mixed in terms, language, and arrangement, the lack of a French dictionary and a New York bill of fare to copy from, will be a sufficient excuse. Our aim is to show that we do not lack variety of eatables and drinkables in camp, and we can mix up French and English as badly in a bill of fare as a Chicago hotel keeper.
(This editor’s somewhat basic knowledge of French has allowed some translation of the menu)
To be continued… C.M. B. G.