In Milwaukee, some of the most memorable meals don’t require weeks-long reservations, fancy dining rooms or a three-hour tasting menu experience. Sometimes they’re tucked into other businesses, hidden behind unmarked doors or assembled in home kitchens. They’re the places you learn about from friends or stumble upon when you’re least expecting to.
From a front porch in Riverwest to a pool hall in Greenfield, each of these under-the-radar food dealers has a unique story. And each rewards the diner who makes a little extra effort to find great food in the most unexpected places.
Cory the Riverwest Sandwich Fixer
The Buttafuoco. The Cheesy Tomato. The Sloppy Salami. Relics of the original Fuel Cafe in Riverwest, which closed in 2020 after 27 years. Since then, plenty of imitations have surfaced – but none come closer than the sandwiches coming out of Cory von Bohlen’s home kitchen.
Online, he’s Cory the Riverwest Sandwich Fixer. And if his sandwiches taste like the ones you loved at Fuel a decade ago, it’s because he probably made them. He worked there for 15 years, turning out roughly 10,000 sandwiches.
Now he sells them from his house.
For one Saturday a month, von Bohlen’s front porch becomes one of the city’s busiest pop-ups. He’s made 52 sandwiches in four hours solo. With the help of one other person, he once tackled 85 sandwiches in six hours. On March 21, he celebrated his birthday by making 85 more.
“I wouldn’t do it if I didn’t love it,” he said.
He started in the summer of 2022, when his friends were reminiscing about Fuel’s menu. He made a few of the biggest hits, word got around to other former coworkers, and soon he was re-creating the classics every couple of weeks. Through word of mouth, he’s built a loyal following of sandwich enthusiasts (and 1,500 Instagram followers), who keep tabs on his social media presence to learn when he’ll host his next pop-up.
Here’s how it works: He announces a date and menu online. Customers send a message to preorder; he replies with pickup details and payment options. Sandwiches run about $11.
One regular drives from Cedarburg for every pop-up. She used to eat at Fuel with her mom, and she now brings back those memories in a grocery bag filled with sandwiches from von Bohlen’s kitchen.
He hears similar stories all the time.
“Tastebud thriller, nostalgia triggerer, hoagie builder,” reads his Instagram profile description.
Most customers come for the Fuel classics. But sometimes they show up for something new.
Last winter, when I pleaded for a chopped cheese sandwich in Milwaukee, he messaged me on Instagram to let me know it’d be on the menu during an upcoming pop-up. And, ooh, did he get it right: seasoned ground beef, crisp veggies, zippy condiments and melty American cheese to tie it together.
I first snagged one of his sandwiches in summer 2023, chasing a craving for the long-lost Buttafuoco. It stayed hot on my drive from Riverwest, and when I returned home, a flashback unfurled from the foil wrapper. The same Peter Sciortino’s roll, soft inside, crackly outside. Shredded lettuce, fresh tomato, crisp onion, tangy mayo, melty mozzarella and provolone, spicy giardiniera. Simple, but memorable.
Cory the Riverwest Sandwich Fixer’s next pop-up is April 11, and he’s doing a special menu this time, paying homage to the famous mozzarella stick- and chicken tender-stuffed “Fat Sandwiches” made popular on the Rutgers University campus in the 1970s.
His Fat Styx sandwich has tomato, onion, lettuce, mozzarella sticks, mozzarella cheese, french fries and tomato sauce. The Fat Rooster features tomato, onion, lettuce, chicken tenders, mozzarella cheese, french fries and buffalo sauce. Both are $12.
More information: Follow @corytheriverwestsandwichfixer on Instagram to make preorders and learn about upcoming sandwich dates.
Fox Den (inside Great Lakes Distillery)
Since 2004, Great Lakes Distillery, 616 W. Virginia St., has eschewed the brew that made Milwaukee famous in favor of crafting spirits. Its Walker’s Point tasting room – which opened in 2012 – is a good hang in its own right but was made even better in 2023, when mini restaurant Fox Den moved its former food truck business into the distillery’s tiny on-site kitchen with a walk-up window.
At first glance, the menu looks simple, but owners Sherilynn Law and Jacob Neitzer take a chef’s approach to burgers and sandwiches. Every topping is deliberate, every sauce made with care.
The Bang! Burger is one of the best in town – two seared patties stacked with American cheese, chopped onions, hand‑cut pickles and their spicy, tangy Bang! sauce, a rowdy riff on the classic burger sauce.
The Umami Bomb piles on mushrooms and caramelized onions, but it’s the Parmesan crisp and arugula that set it apart. And the I Love It When You Call Me Big Popper – with cream cheese, sour cherry jam and pickled jalapeños – earns its name.
On a recent visit, the Stand Banh Mi stood out. Built on a hamburger bun with two hand‑formed chicken patties, it’s not traditional, but the spread of pâté earns bonus points for authenticity – and addictive funk. Pickled carrots, cucumbers, jalapeños and cilantro finish it.
Fox Den stays inclusive with three vegan burgers and gluten‑free buns at no extra charge. The snack fare is playful, too: Chinese barbecue pork buns, wonton nachos with bulgogi, and Clock Shadow Creamery cheese curds.
Confidence is part of the brand: “Have it our way. This ain’t BK.” reads the menu, followed by a firm warning: no substitutions, no ketchup (or mustard, or mayo). Even the Plain Jane, their simplest burger, gets none of that.
Instead, there are 10 signature dipping sauces, from chimichurri to jalapeño “scranch.”
Order at the window to the left of the bottle shop, pick up a buzzer, and grab a seat anywhere in the distillery. Then sip, snack and settle into one of Milwaukee’s best spirit‑and‑burger combos.
Hours: Noon to 8 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday, noon to 11 p.m. Friday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday
More information: foxdenmke.com
Sweet Smoke Barbecue (inside Hawthorne Coffee Roasters)
On weekends at Hawthorne Coffee Roasters, 4177 S. Howell Ave., the nutty, caramelly aroma of freshly brewed espresso intertwines with whiffs of rich, charred meat wafting from the back of the room.
That’s where Sweet Smoke Barbecue is set up most Saturdays and Sundays, serving Texas-style barbecue from its coffee-shop post.
A java joint might seem like an odd spot to sit down with brisket and ribs, but Sweet Smoke isn’t Hawthorne’s first barbecue vendor. The coffee shop was once the hub for the excellent Iron Grate BBQ, before that concept opened its own brick-and-mortar in 2017 (and, sadly, closed in 2022).
Thankfully, Sweet Smoke is carrying on the tradition in the space, once again home to some of the best barbecue you’ll find in the city.
Adam and Cindi Beilke started the concept as a pop-up in 2022, making stops at local breweries and events before settling their 500-gallon smoker behind Hawthorne.
Sweet Smoke’s typical barbecue menu includes brisket, pulled pork, turkey and sausage by the half pound, full pound or sandwich-style. Sides like creamy macaroni and cheese, coleslaw and sweet cornbread muffins are regulars, too. But Sweet Smoke loves to play, offering new specials almost every weekend, like brisket tacos, gochujang pork belly burnt ends, Cubano sandwiches, and meatball subs on buttered, toasted hoagies.
When the weather is warmer, Sweet Smoke serves from its truck parked outside (there’s a patio for sunny-day seating) and makes showstopper brisket smashburgers on Fridays (I can almost taste them now).
On a recent visit, I sat down with a platter of sweet and smoky pulled pork and fatty brisket with a peppery, caramelized bark. I swiped the tangy barbecue sauce on a soft piece of white bread folded over glistening slabs of brisket and prickly pickled onions (the way they do in Texas) and was taken back to a rapturous meal I devoured at a celebrated barbecue joint in Austin years before. Heaven.
Hours: Typically 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday; hours vary, so follow Sweet Smoke Barbecue on Instagram at@sweetsmokebbqmke for updates.
More information: (414) 253-3553,sweetsmokebbqmke.com
Vinchi’s Pizza (inside The Bubbler bar)
A bar that serves pizza is nothing new. But a bar with a separate pizza place inside that operates with an entirely different owner … now that’s unique.
Vinchi’s is the ultimate if-you-know-you-know gem. There’s no website and it doesn’t have a social media presence. To find it, you have to locate The Bubbler, 3158 S. Howell Ave., a classic Wisconsin tavern with wood paneling, dart boards and a long, wraparound bar. Let the bartender know you’re there for pizza. Vinchi’s operates in the back room of the bar, but there isn’t a sign to point you in its direction. Wander back and you’ll see a small dining room with red-checkered table coverings. That’s it.
Vinchi’s tight menu has seven charbroiled sandwiches like the pork chop and the chicken Parmesan, and appetizers that are all some variation of crusty garlic bread topped with a thick cap of gooey cheese – plus sauce and veggies, if you like.
But you’re there for the pizza. There are three signatures: the Vinchi’s Special (sausage, mushroom and onion), Vinchi’s Veggie (mushrooms, onions, green peppers and black olives) and Vinchi’s Supreme (sausage, mushrooms, onions, pepperoni and green peppers). There’s a plain cheese option, too, and you can build your own pie by adding additional toppings.
It’s classic Milwaukee-style pizza. The crispy cracker crust (thick crust is available for a $3 upcharge) flakes at the edges but holds strong under the weight of a pile of cheese and toppings stretched almost to the edges. Sauce is thick and savory. Slices are square-cut. Mushrooms are canned, but I’m not above a canned ‘shroom. The sausage – peppery and herbaceous with fennel seed – is excellent. The pie is served in a paper bag splotched with grease speckles, and if you eat it in-house it comes to the table with paper plates.
Ahh, the perfectly imperfect tavern pizza experience.
Vinchi’s is a small operation, so its food takes awhile (about 35-45 minutes for thin-crust pizza, 20 minutes longer for thick-crust) and it’s a cash-only business (there’s an ATM on-site). But sit with a beverage as you wait or call ahead with your order and you’ll be rewarded in time.
Hours: 4 to 9 p.m. Wednesday to Saturday, 4 to 8 p.m. Sunday
More information: (414) 384-8040
Coney Island (inside Señor Loco inside Romine’s High Pockets)
The ultimate nesting doll of Milwaukee-area dining resides in Romine’s High Pockets, 6125 S. 27th St., in Greenfield.
It’s the Milwaukee area’s largest pool hall (more than 45 tables in a 2,500-square-foot space), but it also has a full-service Mexican restaurant inside: Señor Locos.
The menu covers usual Mexican fare like tacos, burritos, tostadas and enchiladas, but also sneaks in some burgers, sandwiches and homemade pizza. But the smallest, most intriguing “doll” is a decades-old chili recipe from a long-gone Milwaukee institution.
For 60 years, Coney Island restaurant was a Walker’s Point staple, run by Mike Syrrakos until, at 89 years old, he decided it was time to move on. The restaurant closed in 2009, and for a few years, customers mourned the loss of Skyrrakos’ signature, secret chili recipe that he slathered on hot dogs and burgers for most of his life.
So how did it land at Romine’s? According to a 2014 article by former Journal Sentinel food editor Nancy Stohs (also published on Romine’s website), after Syrrakos passed away in 2012, his daughters reached out to the Romine family, owners of Romine’s High Pockets, to let them know the recipe was for sale. A loyal customer, Terry Romine Sr. was entrusted to carry it on. He died just before the deal was finalized, but his children added Coney Island chili dogs and burgers to the menu months later.
“Just like 6 & National,” the menu reads, nodding to the Coney Island restaurant’s Walker’s Point cross streets.
It’s not much to look at, as most chili isn’t. The mild, ground beef-based chili is slopped over a standard hot dog and bun with some fresh-chopped onions and mustard buried underneath. I went through three napkins trying to eat the dog with my hands until I gave up and grabbed a fork and knife – it’s easier to appreciate that way.
I didn’t grow up with Coney Island, so I can’t vouch for the authenticity of the Romine’s version. The nostalgia’s lost on me, but after a few bites, I understood why generations of diners found it so comforting. I have no idea what the 17 secret seasonings are, but they blend in the background to create something mild and savory, with a hint of sweetness.
I ordered the combo with one Coney dog, one Coney burger and a side of french fries. The dog works best: smoky, simple, a perfect base for the chili, with mustard and onions adding bite. The fries are plain but shine when dragged through the leftover sauce.
Señor Locos may not wow you, and the chili might not, either. But the setting – the rescue of a recipe that could’ve vanished – make this restaurant-inside-a-restaurant-inside-a-pool-hall a distinctly Milwaukee kind of charm.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday
More information: (414) 281-2212,romineshp.com
This article originally appeared on Milwaukee Journal Sentinel: 5 hidden food spots in the Milwaukee area that are worth the search
Reporting by Rachel Bernhard, Milwaukee Journal Sentinel / Milwaukee Journal Sentinel
USA TODAY Network via Reuters Connect
