A darling of the early aughts, flatbread pizzas have never really gotten their due. The oblong, square or triangular-cut unleavened breads were once de rigueur at mid-range restaurants and gastropubs, where they were considered something between a sharable appetizer and an entree.
The writer John Carruthers captured their appeal to chefs and customers succinctly in a 2022 piece for The Takeout when he called them “a showcase for toppings that reuse the ‘elevated’ kitchen ingredients and charge a premium for it.” Those ingredients might include balsamic vinegar, heirloom tomatoes, premium cheeses or barbecue chicken.
At Grassroots & Vine, in Fort Thomas, the flatbread hits all the right notes. The bread itself, sourced from WildBloom Sourdough Microbakery, in Alexandria, is warm and chewy. It’s topped with a fire-roasted tomato puree, creamy mozzarella, olive oil, basil and, for a little extra, some very juicy roasted chicken. It’s the kind of dish you might order without much thought. But once you’re one or two bites in, you’ll realize just how perfectly it satisfies your cravings for comfort food and, yes, pizza (though it feels slightly healthier given the quality of the ingredients).
Grassroots & Vine might look like a work in progress. Handsome wooden shelves stand empty. A bar area in the main dining room seems like it’s yet to find its purpose. That’s because, after seven years of ownership by Barb Thomas, it was sold to Challis and Lauren Hodge, owners of Conserva tapas bar, in Ludlow. They are in the process of performing a slight remodel as well as some menu adjustments. But don’t worry, Challis Hodge told me the flatbreads aren’t going anywhere.
1011 S. Fort Thomas Ave., Fort Thomas, 859-814-8391, grassrootsandvine.com.
Highly Recommended is a weekly spotlight on some of food writer Keith Pandolfi’s favorite finds as he eats his way across Greater Cincinnati. Come back every Tuesday for more. Still hungry? Sign up for Keith’s At the Table newsletter at bit.ly/atthetablesignup.
This article originally appeared on Cincinnati Enquirer: Can’t make up your mind? Go with the flatbread pizza
Reporting by Keith Pandolfi, Cincinnati Enquirer / Cincinnati Enquirer
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